Among Gaudi's loveliest works is Parc Guell, originally designed as a "garden-city" for Barcelona's privileged. Although the concept failed (only two of 60 plots sold), the city of Barcelona acquired the area and transformed it into a public park. Highlights include brilliant mosaic benches, exotic fountains, and the "room of one-hundred columns."

Casa Mila-better known as La Pedrera, or the quarry-is a five-story building resembling a man-made stone mountain with groups of "caverns" opening onto the facade. Climbing to the roof affords the most spectacular view, a series of bizarre, almost surrealistic structures that are actually chimneys and air ducts.

Les Ramblas
English writer Somerset Maugham described this long, shady promenade in the heart of old Barcelona as, "the most beautiful street in the world," and the Coopers agree. The path begins at the center of downtown and winds nearly two miles to a Christopher Columbus monument near the Mediterranean Sea. "At the very top are white benches, but if you want to sit there, you have to pay," Kelli says. "From there, you pass mini-pet shops-kiosks that sell rabbits, mice, chicken, birds, and turtles. Next come the florists, and halfway down is la Boqueria, one of the oldest markets in Europe. All along the Ramblas are human statues painted entirely white. When you pay them, they change positions. Next are artists and restaurants and, toward the end, vendors selling handmade items."

"One of the first things I noticed is the pace-Spaniards love to put their hands behind their backs and simply stroll, particularly along the Ramblas and around plazas," Dave adds. "It's a very slow, relaxed culture."

A self-described history buff, Dave was particularly fascinated by Barcelona's Gothic quarter. A section of the city filled with ancient cathedrals and palaces, Barcelona's "old town" includes the royal palace where Christopher Columbus was welcomed back from the New World by Fernando and Isabel in 1492. "The churches are overwhelming, and most are more than one-thousand years old," Dave says. "I never get tired of looking at them."

"The best way to discover Barcelona's hidden treasures is to soak up the city's ambiance-walk through the old Gothic areas, sit in the squares and drink coffee, or visit the small shops," adds Phil, a marketing executive for St. Louis, Mo. based Earth Grains.

Montserrat
Built halfway up and in to the "sawn mountain," or Montserrat, is a famed monastery where, according to legend, the Madonna appeared in a mountain cave. The sculpture La Moreneta, or the Black Virgin, symbolizes the sacredness of the monastery, which is about a one-hour train ride from Barcelona. Benedictine monks live at Montserrat, and visitors can hike the Stations of the Cross or listen to the remarkable sounds of the choir scholars. "On a clear day, you can see the entire city of Barcelona from this mountain," Madelyn says. "It's incredible."

The City Never Stops
Maneuvering through Barcelona is easy, the Coopers say, with an inexpensive and reliable metro system and abundant taxis. Treating yourself to ride through the city on a double-decker Bus Touriste is a great start. Sightseeing days extend easily into evenings. Restaurants typically serve dinner at 9 p.m., and most accept reservations until 12:30 or 1 a.m.

Barcelona also has more bars and cafes than any European city. "You can't go three blocks without seeing a bar," Kelli says. "They're tucked in everywhere." Particularly popular are "tapa" bars-cafes that serve small appetizer-type food, or tapas. Sampling requires a sense of adventure, the Coopers say, as the lineup can include everything from baby octopus or squid to potato and onion omelettes.

Kava, or champagne, bars also draw large crowds, and the price is right, DJ says. "You only pay about $3 for a good bottle of champagne. People typically hit a kava bar from about 6 to 8 p.m. for cocktails, go home and take a nap, and then go back out for dinner around 11 p.m., even on weeknights."

From November through Easter, country cafes host "calcoteras." A favorite Sunday pasttime-and an event highly recommended by the Gruszkas and Coopers-these hours-long meals feature calcots, or large, green, charcoal-grilled onions served in a long, narrow tile. The setting typically is an old mountainside farmhouse minutes from the city, with tables of 20 or more and playgrounds for children.

True to their family business, the Coopers also sought Barcelona's best coffee blends. "My favorite was a cortado, which is a lightly roasted, mellow expresso served in a short glass with a shot of steamed milk," Madelyn recalls.

There's more to discover, too. Madelyn and Dave plan a return trip later this fall, and DJ will visit again next summer. Dave already predicts a Barcelona bullfight will top their next "don't miss" list.

-Slow down! Meals are "events," and can last for hours. Many tapa bars operate on the honor system, too. Instead of presenting a bill, waiters often trust customers to calculate the total. Tip minimally-5 to 10 percent is acceptable.

-Target the perfect time. Dave and Madelyn recommend visiting Barcelona in the fall, or May or June. December through January is fine, too, but the weather is cooler and less predictable. Avoid July and August (it's crowded), and Easter-time.

-Read up! "If you buy only one book, buy Fodor's," Kelli advises. A particularly helpful website is www.bcn.edu, which lists Barcelona's calendar of events.