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Carla
and I were looking for our own adventure; a place where we could
explore and unwind on tropical beaches. We chose the British Virgins
Islands because of the magnificence of the glorious sunshine, gentle
trade winds, and abundance of natural resources and rich history.
We were looking for our own vacation in paradise.
We were referred to Ed Hamilton Charters, a charter agent that provided
us with six choices in crewed yachts. We selected the “Courvoisier”,
piloted by Captain Mike Rigby and his first mate, Cyndi, for our eight-Day
cruise. The Courvoisier is a nice ship; a 60’ Morgan. There is a
large suite aft, two cabins forward, and crew quarters amid-ship. The
food and beverage was included, so we selected our menus in advance.
Most of our meals were served on deck and included our favorites, as
well as, some wonderful local catches and a few surprises.
Our travel itinerary included a flight from Chicago to Miami with a connection
to St. Thomas. The Courvoisier was moored at the American Yacht Club
in Red Hook Harbor on St. Thomas Island. Our planned cruise included
stops on Tortola, Jost Van Dyke, Virgin Gorda, through Sir Francis Drake
Channel to Peter Island, St. John, then back to St. Thomas on the eighth
day.
Our recommendation for provisions is to pack light. All you need are
t-shirts, swimming suits, sandals, and simple cover-ups for island jaunts.
We’ll only take one little duffle next trip.
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Day
2
The sunrise is astounding. A leisurely breakfast, then we’re off
to Tortola. We have to check in with British Customs at West End Harbor.
Carla received an official certificate welcoming her to the British Virgin
Islands. We set sail for Jost Van Dyke under breathtaking skies. This
island is only occupied by 150 people and had no streets or sidewalks
until Fergie came to visit. The sidewalks were only built where she was
to walk. But, this little community in Great Harbor has Foxy’s.
Foxy is the owner/proprietor. He is Caribbean, doesn’t like shoes
(he owns one pair he uses for travel), sings, tells stories, and is reported
to be a millionaire. This New Year’s Eve he expects over 200,000
people in Great Harbor and White Bay to celebrate the new millenium.
The Soggy Dollar
Bar & Grill is in White Bay; a local haunt with lots of character.
Visitors leave all sorts of momentos, from lingerie to business cards,
tacked to the walls and ceiling. We shopped for local jewelry made
from glass bottles; 73-year old, Bob, is the artist. We had Mahi
Mahi for dinner while watching a spectacular sunset. We’re starting
to lose track of time.
Day
3
Another sunrise in paradise! Amazing! Carla spent most of the morning
in the “flying bridge”. We are both in awe of the peacefulness
and beauty. We sailed around the north side of Tortola and passed Guana
Island, a rock formation that, at the correct angle, looks exactly like
an iguana’s head. We sailed to Trellis Bay to moor for the night.
A lady named Anook, from Montreal, (we named her Anook from the North),
visited our boat in her run-about. She sells jewelry and t-shirts of
her own design. Captain Mike grilled steaks for supper-delicious! We’re
amazed at all the stars. Carla had never seen the Milky Way and had not
slept without a TV on for 23 years. She hasn’t even missed it.
Day
4
We set sail for Virgin Gorda(fat virgin) and Spanish Town. We dock and
go ashore for shopping and sightseeing. Everything is so laid back here-even
the ferry’s. One is named “When”; it arrives and departs
when it does.
Day
5
After breakfast, we take a taxi (a pick-up with benches in the back)
to the Baths. This is a fascinating place with natural rock formations
at the edge and into the ocean. Large boulders the size of houses are
strewn about with paths in and out to the waters edge. We roamed the
trails and even ate some cactus blossums. We sailed out of Spanish Town
and anchored off Cooper Island. While Captain Mike fixed lunch, Carla
and I went snorkeling. We could see he was grilling, but were pleasantly
surprised to find a large platter of cheeseburgers and Jimmy Buffet’s
song “Cheeseburgers in Paradise” playing. What a great lunch.
Our friend, Dave
Cooper, arranged a special birthday dinner for Carla at the Peter
Island Resort. That evening we had dinner on the beach…excellent
food and a Caribbean band in a picturesque setting overlooking the
ocean. 40 something in paradise!
Day
6
We bid farewell to Peter Island and set sail for Norman Island, the setting
and inspiration for the novel “Treasure Island”. We anchored
in “The Bight” and go ashore to the Billy Bones Bar. “The
Bight” also has a floating frigate, a popular evening spot with
people delighting in diving off the aft deck.
Day
7
Interesting morning. Goats bleating, donkeys braying, nude people walking
the beach…same old breakfast-Hershey bars and Pepsi. Paradise is
nice.
We set sail for
St. John. Mike is heading to St. Thomas to pick up a pump, Carla
wants to shop, so I take the dinghy to go adventuring. I found the
East Texas Bar. What a place! Mostly locals, all friendly, until
I meet Adrianne…a talking, singing, headsitting, poop anywhere,
parrot! What fun!
Day
8
Another beautiful day. We set sail for St. Thomas and the point of beginning.
We sail into Red Hook Harbor and dock at Latitude 18. After packing all
the clothes we never wore and saying our goodbyes, it’s off to the
airport. Oh, by the way. We had one more adventure in Charlotte Amalie,
but you’ll have to ask Carla about that.
ACCORDING
TO LOCAL LEGEND…
- Blackbeard
abandoned 30 sailors on Dead Chest Island only to return 30 days
later to find that 15 sailors had perished. So says the song lyric, “15
men on a dead man’s chest.”
- Norman Island
is the setting and inspiration for the novel Treasure Island.
- Columbus discovered
the Virgin Islands in 1493. Seeing the numerous islands, he named
them “the Virgins” in honor of St. Ursula and the 11,000
virgins who, threatened by the marauding Huns in 4th-century Cologne,
sacrificed their lives rather than submit to a fate worse than
death. Virgin Gorda got its name (fat virgin) because Columbus,
viewing it from seaward, thought that it resembled a reclining
woman with a protruding belly.
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This
article originally appeared in the Feb/March 2000 issue of Decatur
Magazine.
It may not be reproduced or redistributed in whole or in part without
the publisher's consent.
© Copyright
2000 Decatur Magazine - First String Productions. All rights reserved.
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